Good job:
It took me a while longer to sight in a few of my guns. I ended up buying three different laser bore sighting devices before I got one that would actually work good.
I found that some of them when stuck inside the gun barrel wobble too much and make it hard to get the scope sighted in right even at only 25 yards.
I still get confused with the instructions on how to take into account the height of the scope above the rifle bore.
I sighted in my Remington Model 660 in 222 cal after I put a new Full Field II scope on it. I had a new trigger installed as there was a Remington Recall on the trigger safety years ago and I finally took mine in for a warranty safety repair job on the trigger. I later decided to have the rifle glass bedded to make it more accurate.
The two shots I took at 100 yards were touching each other after I finally go the scope sighted in.
Then I decided to try to sight in a new scope on my new Pellet Rifle. That was a job. First off the laser bore sighting device was not made for 0.177 cal pellets so I had to go buy a new laser sighter device that was made specifically for 0.117 cal pellet guns. It's was the same at my other but was made for 0.117 cal pellet guns where the one I already had only worked for 22 cal or bigger. That cost me another 70 bucks. But I have several pellet rifles that I want to put scopes on. So I thought it was worth the money for me.
It took a while to figure out how many turns of the scope windage dial to turn to make corrections at 30 yards. But there was a formula that showed me how to future the amount of clicks for a 1/4 MOA scope dial. I turned out that it was 2x the clicks to move the point of impact as 50 yards. So it was 8 clicks to move the POI 1 inch at 50 yards. Where are at 100 yards it takes only 4 clicks to move the POI One Inch. Once I had that information it was much easier to adjust the scope once I got on paper. Also I found out that the wind has a much greater affect on pellets POI than on the 222 bullets.
I knew that pellets were a lot lighter and slower but the wind really plays a much bigger role in the POI on these pellet guns than on a real high powered rifle bullet.
I probably should sell one of my Laser devices to recoup my costs.
Just make sure that if you buy one of these lazer sighting devices that it fits securely into your gun barrel and doesn't wobble around too much.
I'm still not certain about leveling the scope and why that's so important. Unless you have a lot of different shims to us it's going to be hard to level a scope with the rifle. And how does one keep the rifle level while mounting the scope onto it? Do you have to have the gun mounted to a holder of some sort to level it and keep it level while you put the scope on the rifle? That seems almost impossible to do. And when you shot your not going to have the rifle level all the time while shooting.
I use a sand bag on a home made shooting table when I'm sighting in my pellet guns in my back yard. I made the shooting table myself with some store bought folding legs obtained at the hardware store. They are made for picnic tables I think. I cut the table top out of plywood and sanded it and finished it with stain and varnish myself. It' works pretty good with the sand bag. I got the shooting sand bag from Gander Mountain as well as the Laser sighting devices.
The laser sighting device came with a reflective target that shows a Green Laser beam really good even in bright sunlight. The red laser beams are harder to see in sunlight without a good reflective target to sight on. The reflective target is used to a line the scope at 25 yards using the reflective target.
If the center of the scope is 2.0" above the bore of the rifle I guess that's got to be taken into consideration some how. I'm not sure exacty how that's done but I guess you just add 2" above the bulls eye to where the laser beam hits and that should make the bullet hit the bulls eye?
Once I got the laser beam on the reflective target and the scope cross hairs on the reflective target I took the laser device out of the bore and started trying to shoot at a paper target at 100 yards. I had to drive about 45 minutes to a shooting range. So I wanted to make sure that I was able to hit the paper target somewhere on the paper so that I could dial the scope to put the POI on the bulls eye. That took a few more shots as I didn't know how to move the scope cross hairs to move the POI to where it was suppose to be. I over think things. But I finally figured out when the up arrow on the dial is turned in the up direction it moves the POI up. I was wondering if that meant that it move the cross hairs up and if that move the POI down or up? But I got that figured out finally. I was making it more harder than I should have been. Up means that the POI is moved up. So I learned how the scope windage and elevation dials work.
Bottom line is that the Laser beams devices can help you get on paper faster and save ammo.
With the advent of laser bore sighters mounting a scope and getting close on paper has become a pretty easy thing to do but it usually takes a few shots to get it exactly where you want it.
I got a new Rock River PEPR type one piece mount and put a new to me Mueller 3-10x44 Illuminated sport dot in it and mounted it on my WOA .223 varmint upper. I set the scope up by marking two dots two inches apart vertically on a window frame about 30 feet away. The upper dot and the edge of the frame were centered on the cross-hairs of the scope and the lower dot was in the center of the bore view.
For a .223 55gr Hornady V-max at 3200 fps with the scope 2.7" over the bore I wanted to be +1.5" at 100 yards to give a good MPBZ.
I did not have a lot of time to spare so I put three rounds in and used a sling in prone position to see if I was even close at 100 yards.
I will only say sometimes it is better to be lucky than good.. two clicks right and we are good. I have never been this close with the first shots out of a newly mounted scope.